THE FRIENDLY PEOPLE OF KINABALU

The people in and around Kinabalu are mainly the kadazandusun, Sabah's largest ethnic community. Traditionally rice farmers, their 'kampungs' or villages are scattered all over the hills and mountain slopes. it is not unusual to see them scampering up and down the mountain seemingly without exhaustion! and  that's exactly  why most of them work as mountain guides and porters.

The Kadazandusun people consider themselves the guardian of Mt. Kinabalu. They believe this is sacred ground, a resting place for the spirits of their ancestors. Earlier attempts to climb the mountain had been forbidden, as as to do so would have disturbed these spirits and incurred their wrath. In 1851 when Sir Hugh Low led the expedition up the mountain, a compromise was reached with the locals to offer scrifice to appease the spirits.

THE PORING HOT SPRINGS

A visit to Kinabalu Park is not complete without a jaunt to Poring. "Poring" is Kadazandusin word for the bamboo species growing in the area. Situated 40km away slightly northeast of the Parks HQ, Poring is in the lowlands, a complete contrast to the Parks HQ. Soak away the sores and aches of muscles in the hot  sulphuric minerals of this spring, claimed to have curative powers and very popular with the locals.

BUTTERFLY FARM

Here you will find several species of colorful and striking butterflies. Borneo's first, this farm feature sa garden, nursery and hatchery for purpose of research, education and the preservation of endangered species.

PORING ORCHID CONSERVATION CENTRE

With 1,200 species of orchids found in with Kinabalu Park, the Centre has the largest live collection of Sabah Orchid and rare endemic wild orchids.

TROPICAL GARDEN

Mousedeers and deers relax under the gaze of colorful birds in the aviary.

PORING CANOPY WALK

A must-visit! stroll amidst the canopy of the Menggaris tree -  the King od the Forest. The walkway is 157.8m long and 41m high!

RAFFLESIA

The world's biggest flower, Rafflesia is one of the hardest to find. Fortunately, Sabah is known to have the largest concentration of the Rafflesia population. This rare and exotic flower takes up to 15months to bud but only lasts 7 days in bloom. The Park wikk post notice to announce a Rafflesia in bloom or bud. 

STUNNING FLORA & FAUNA

Kinabalu Park is Borneo's botanical paradise. it is home to about 1,200 species of orchids, 26 species of rhododendrons, 9 species of Nepenthes pitcher plants, over 80 species of fig trees, over 60 species of oaks and chestnut trees, 100 species of mammals, 326 species of birds - the list goes on! The Park has continually attracted top naturalist and botanists from around the world and been proclaimed an area with the richest diversity of flora and fauna

FLORA - The forest of Kinabalu are some of the richest in the world with an estimated 5,000 flowering, and this does not include the innumerable mosses, ferns and fungi. Wild orchids grow in abundance and range in size from a pinhead to a huge stems over 2 meter in length. Look out for the beautiful Slipper Orchids, which command much commercial interest with the Rothchild's Slipper Orchid so preciously coveted it is considered the "Kinabalu Gold".

The world's largest pitcher plant can also be found in Kinabalu Park, The insect eating Rajah Brooke's Pitcher Plants have pitcher that can hold up to 3.5 litres of water! 19 species of the beautiful Begonia plants have been documented, with probably half that number being endemic. The Begonia Chongii, a rare Begonia plant found on the west side of the mountain, is a recent discovery. It was named in honour of the then CHief Minister of Sabah. YAB Tan Sri Chong Kah Kiat in recognition for his enthusiastic support for the natural environment conservation and protection of Sabah's Park.

FAUNA - This wonderland features some of the most amazing creations of nature. Since animals are not easily seen, patience is cirtue - that you will be blessed with rare and captivating sights!

A stroll past the road-side lamps at the Park HQ on the dark wet night or at dawn will reveal moths, beetles and other insects in all shapes, sizes and colours. some are camouflaged in delicate mossy green and greys, while other flaunt bright contrasting colours or red, black and white. There are 'twigs' that walk and 'leaves' that fly! Look closer and you'll find that they are actually insects.

This abundance of insects and plants play a big hand in supporting a thriving bird population. Over 300 Species have been recorded in the Park. There is a Grey Drongo with white eye-ring and fork tail, and the heavy, long-tailed Malaysian Treepie are two of the commonest at the Parh HQ. Higher up, you will find a small green Mountain Blacetes and the larger red-breasted Mountain BlackBirds.

THE CLIMB TO THE PEAK

After a night's rest, most climbers leave at about 3.00am for the 3-hour trek to the summit and to catch a magnificent sunrise, weather permitting. In the dark, you can see the beams of torch lights as the procession of climbers trudge higher and higher. There are ladders, hand railings and ropes to help you over the steeper slopes.

An hour from Panar Laban, you'll see the Sayat-Sayat Hut, this is the highest shelter on the mountain for park use only. From here, you will walk across the bare granite slabs that stretch endlessly ahead, in an eerie moonscape of stone. The vegetation are stunted shrubs and tough grasses in the crevices. 

By about 6.00am, you reach your final destination; the highest point on Mount Kinabalu, the summit of Borneo at 4095.2m is Low's Peak! As you wait in the cold, dawn gradually creeps over the horizon, illuminating the darkness with the light of a new day. In clear weather, you can almost see all of Sabah spread out below... 

From this vantage point, you'll also see a dramatic drop more than 1000m down...this is the Low's Gully. In 1998, a joint Malaysian-British expedition successfully descended in to the Gully. Expedition members believe that it was not so much a 'conquering' of the Gully, as an acceptance by the mountain to let them through, perhaps due to the spiritual rituals before and after the expedition.

A chasm stretching 16Km in length, it separates the summit plateau into the Western and Eastern Plateaus. Other peaks on the mountain are Victoria's Peak (4090m),Donkey Ears Peak (4054m), South Peak (3921.5m) and St. John's Peak (4090.7m) on the Western Plateau. On the Eastern Plateau, stand King Edward Peak (4086m), Mesilau Peak (3801.3m) and king George Peak (4062.6m). These peaks are only for experience climbers as it is a challenging climb. Special permits from the Park authorities is required.

It can be very cold with strong wind at the summit. Hence, climbers are advised to descent as soon as possible. You may be lucky to have good mountain condition and able to stay longer . It is advisable to descent before the swirling clouds could obstruct visibility. It takes 2 hours to descent to Panar Laban / Laban Rata. Check out time is 10am. The descent to Timpohon Gate takes about 4 to 5 hours. The slowest descend Record from Panar Laban to Timpohon Gate is 12 Hours!

TRAILS TO THE TOP - Part 3

The thinning air makes it harder to breathe. Finally, the various accomodations for overnight stop reached, at Waras Hut, Laban Rata, Panar Laban or Gunting Lagadan Hut. The most confortable is Laban Rata which equipped with running water, electricity, a restaurant, indoor showers and toilet.

Panar Laban "The Place of Scarifice" was where Sir Hugh Low and his local guides performed a ritual scrifice to appease the ancestral souls of for their 'disturbance' to the spirit world and to seek safe passage. This same sacrifice is still performed each year and when there is a major expedition or event on the mountain.

The Mesilau Route to the Summit Starts from Mesilau Resort and leads to Layang-Layang (Carson's Camp). It was open in Octobor 1998 initially used mainly by scientists and researchers as it takes longer to reach Layang-Layang (5-6hours) compared to Timpohon Gate (2-3hours). Visitors who wish to take this Route mus register and pay a small fee at Mesilau Gate.

The trail is a good one for people who are more interested in plants and wildlife than in the actual climb to the summit of Mt. Kinabalu. Conifers, Climbing Bamboos, Superb Agathis trees grow in the area. Near the ridge crest at about 2000m the forest become stunted, with rocks, tangled tree roots, covered in spongy mosses and liverworts. There are many delicate orchids and beautiful orange-coloured Rhododendrons.

Some little streams are crossed before reaching the Kipuyut Bridge acress the swift-flowing West Mesilau River that cascades from the precious slopes. Near the 3km mark, a tributary of the river is again crossed. From here the trail follows the ridge, rising steeply and continuously, up and up and up in an almost never-ending series of steps for about 2km. From here another 500m of trail contouring around the massif bring you out to the Summit Trail, a little way above Layang-Layang. The wholeMesilau Route to Layang-Layang is 5.7km.

TRAILS TO THE TOP - Part 2

The third shelter is Pondok Lowii. The trail continues up to the mossy forest of mixed bamboos and tree ferns. More rhododendrons are seen. At 2515m is the fourth shelter, Pondok Mempening is reached with wild begonias growing nearby. Stops at these shelters give one time to observe the squirrels, tree shrews and birds that seem so unafraid of the climbers. You will also see the Layang-Layang Tv Stations. Soon u will emerge to an open exposed ridge at Layang-Layang ( previously known as Carson's Camp ) at 2702m this is where the Summit Trail meets with the Mesilau Trail.

At this point a band of ultramafic soil, distinguished by its orange-cinnamon colour, crosses the trail and the vegetation changes dramatically. The Forest becomes shorter and much more open and is dominated by the second species leptospermum that grows on Kinabalu, L.recurvum, with its tiny grey leaves and Dacrydium gibbsiae, a very beautiful conifer, both found only in Kinabalu Park. This is also the zone of the insect-eating pitcher plants for which Kinabalu is famous. Of the 30 species of pitcher plants recorde from Borneo, around 10 grow on the mountain and at least 3 species are found nowhere else in the world. These include the spectacular Nepenthes Rajah, the largest pitcher plant in the world and the beautiful N.villosa. These plant are delicate and easily damaged by trampling feet. Please look carefully where you tread. 

 

Pondok Villosa, the fifth shelter, at 2690m is situated at the top of an open rocky patch and soon the forest becomes even more stunted. Here are found the scurfy orange young leaves of the endemic Haviland's oak add a touch of colour. Superb view can be seen of Mt Kinabalu towering above as you follow the trail upwards. More rhododendrons are seen, some species that are Kinabalu endemics. Schima brevifolia with its young purple leaves and beautifil large camellia-like flowers is common from here. 

 

At the top of this open area at 3050m, a small track leads off to a helipad on the right and it is worth making this 5 minutes side trip for a dramatic view of the towering peaks from the helipad on a clear day.

After the helipad junction, the ultramafic soil ends the forest are again the taller trees covered with mosses and orchids cover the ground in between granite boulders. At this elevation, about 60% of the ground cover is orchids. Within a few minutes you arrive at the sixth shelter, Pondok Paka at 3080m, named after Paka Cave nearby, made famous because it is here that the very first summit expedition led by Sir Hugh Low sheltered, rested overnight before climbing to the summit on the morning of 11th march 1851. The Paka Cave, on the edge of small stream is nothing more than a large overhanging rock.

To be continued.....

TRAILS TO THE TOP - Part 1

Climbing Mt. Kinabalu can be done in 2 days but a more comfortable climb in 3-days is recommended to acclimatise to the altitude and full enjoy the rich biological diversity - the exotic rare plants, orchids, birds and many more. While it does not require special skills to do the climb, you must have at least have the basic fitness level. Park regulations require climbers have to engage the services of registered mountain guide. The number of guides depend on the number of climbers. Porter services are available and recommended. Book and pay for your mountain guide and porter at Kinabalu Park.

Two trails lead to the top, The Summit Trail and Mesilau Route. the 2 trails meet at Layang Layang at 2740m. The Summit Trail is well trodden main route taken by most climbers, since the beginning. Starting from the park HQ, it used to be that climbers walk 4km up to Timpohon Gate at 1866.4m where the Summit Trail starts. Today most climber opt to take a shuttle transport. Interestingly, the climb actually begins with the decent to Carson's Fall, named after the first Park Warden of Kinabalu Park. From here onward. depending on your fitness level it is about 4 to 5 hours climb for the day.

 

The trails winds up a steep staircase of gnarled tree roots to a mossy world of drifting clouds and orchids draped trees, where pitcher plants and rhododendrons abound. There are several Pondok (shelters). The first Pondok Kandis at 1981m where on a clear day, a view of the road that links Kota Kinabalu to the park can be seen. 

The second shelter is Pondok Ubak at 2081m, the area where on of the Borneo's most unusual pitcher plants grows - the Nepenthes lowii, so do look for this oddly-shaped plants with pitcher container. The Mossy forest continues on past the Sabah Telecoms Station at Komborongoh 2252m interestingly, 'Komborongoh' is a plant that Kadazandusun use to ward off evil spirits and used in traditional ceremonies and rituals.

To be Continued.......

TRAILS OF WONDER

Step inf the wonderland and follow any numerous trails around Kinabalu Park. Even though it is the most explored and studied place in Borneo, new discoveries of rare endemic plants are constantly being made here.

So take a map and set off on your own or follow Park Naturalist as they take you on guided trail walks and point out the various wonders. There are also audio-visual shows featuring rare flora and fauna found here. if you are a first time visitor, sign up for these shows and you'll be thrilled when you find yourself identifying the same denisenz on your walks or during your climb up to Mt. Kinabalu.

Mt. Kinabalu Botanical Garden - is one of the biggest attractions at the park Started in 1981 this 5-acre Garden is an excellent showcase of the diverse plant-life on the mountain, as flora from all over the Park has been replanted here. Many of these plants are not only lovelyto look upon but they have medicinal value too, as proven by the local Dusun community.